What trees are the best for a low-maintenance garden?

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One of the most popular questions we are asked by our clients is how they can make the best use of their garden space with minimal maintenance. With hectic work schedules eating into our leisure and family time, few people have the time to invest the care and attention into their garden that they would ideally like. Often the best solution is to design a garden which can pretty much take care of itself with only minimal effort required.

Low-maintenance trees are growing in popularity, especially the varieties which are also small and can fit comfortably within a limited space. When trying to decide which low-maintenance species work for you, try if you can to select a native tree as this will have a better chance of thriving in the soil conditions without lots of specialist intervention. Native trees also resist disease and insects better than more exotic varieties. It’s also important to assess the sunlight requirements of the tree; if your garden is largely shaded then a low-maintenance tree which grows best in a shaded area will establish itself better.

If you’ve got a blank canvas to start with, trees and shrubs are a valuable addition as they can give your garden a framework and become a focal point. Evergreens will provide a continuous source of foliage to your garden, even in the winter, while deciduous varieties will reflect the changing seasons.

Apple trees are a good low-maintenance species and will work well in small or larger gardens, depending on the variety you choose. If your garden can accommodate it, select two varieties of apple tree so that they are able to pollinate one another. Apple trees also like as much sun as possible and nutrient-rich soil which drains well. If you’re struggling for space or have a hard landscaped backyard then consider a dwarf apple tree which can sit in a pot on the decking.

Another important consideration when choosing trees for a low-maintenance garden is how often they will need pruning. One way of eliminating the need to prune at all is selecting species which grow to a certain size and then stop. Dwarf conifers such as Pinus Brepo and Abies Koreana do not need excessive attention except watering and make a good low-maintenance addition to most gardens. Ornamental cherry trees such as Prunus Pandora and Prunus Okame will also not need pruning to keep shape and importantly will do well in most soil types.

How to plant a tree?

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Once you have decided on which species of tree is best suited to your garden and soil, you need to plant it the right way to give it the best chance of growing into a strong and healthy tree.

Choosing the right location is essential; for example, it is vital that you plant your tree at least ten feet away from your property to ensure the roots don’t damage the foundations. You also need to make sure that any surface structures, such as patios or driveways, are a minimum of five feet away from the proposed site and establish where any overhead or underground utilities are situated.

Why are you planning on planting your tree? Do you want additional privacy or a wind break? Where in the garden has the most sun? By considering all of these factors, you will be able to make the most informed – and safest – decision about where to plant your tree.

Once you have chosen the location, dig a large, square hole that is approximately twice as wide and slightly shallower than the root ball. Go square rather than round as otherwise the roots may circulate rather than make their way outwards. Roughen the soil around the edges of the hole to help the root tips penetrate the native earth.

Remove your tree from its container by gently laying it on its side (protecting the foliage) and tapping the bottom and sides of the container in order to loosen the root ball. Slide the pot off the root ball before lowering it into the hole.

There is no need to tease or separate the roots and you can use the same soil you dug out to fill in the hole. Make sure you don’t bury the trunk as this may cause it to rot; try to have the root ball about an inch above the soil surface – just make sure that the roots aren’t exposed.

Pack down the soil as you backfill, pressing down firmly after every few shovels of soil to collapse any air pockets.

This is also the time to orient the tree, so that branches aren’t in the way. If you prefer a particular side, it can be turned to a prominent viewpoint. You will also need to make sure that the tree is standing upright. Remember to always turn it from the base of the root ball rather than the base of the trunk.

Thoroughly water your tree after planting; to concentrate water to the dry roots, you can create a gulley that is a little larger than the root ball.

Remove the nursery stake and loosely stake your tree with soft, pliable tree ties placed outside the root ball. Never use wires as they can cut into a trunk. You will want to remove the stakes as soon as the tree is able to support itself; ideally within a year. The earlier the stakes are removed, the sooner your tree can develop strength through resistance to the elements.

Leaving two inches around the trunk free, cover the planting area with mulch, as this can prevent the soil surface from drying out, reduce weed and grass growth and keep the soil temperate, which aids healthy root growth.

If you would like any further information on growing a tree, just ask Matt or call us on 01277 229709.  If you are in any doubt we can come along and plant your tree for you to ensure it has the best start in life.